The Best of the Middle East

And the best of Middle Eastern living in the United States

Pity us!

Oh, the lengths to which we had to go. Those arduous mornings hiking to mountaintops in search of the finest views, the long plane rides bouncing from Jordan to Oman in search of the tastiest, the bleary-eyed nights prowling restaurants for the perfect baklava. We consumed buckets of coffee and endured countless hours of shopping to find out who offers the world’s finest. Enjoy the fruits of our labors, safe in the knowledge that we’re recuperating—where else?—with a cup of ahweh (Arabic coffee) in our new Turkish bath robe.

Cooking Vacations

Cooking vacations that bring tears of joy in Pennsylvania, tender burgers in Beirut, and a romantic restaurant igniting passions in Manhattan. It’s time to dig in.

A number of vacations center around our favorite activity: eating. We are particularly fond of Quakertown, Pennsylvania’s program, Cooking at the Inn at Turtle Pond. Chef and host Una Maderson starts your vacation with a dinner she prepares for your arrival on Friday evening. Sleep well, for on Saturday morning you get to roll up your sleeves in her fabulous kitchen overlooking a two-acre lake, while learning to make Maderson Mediterranean/Middle Eastern, Asian and vegetarian specialties. The price of $330 includes two nights at the inn, two days of classes and all meals. Ph.: 215/538-2564, www.turtlepondcooking.com.

For the intrepid: Turkey’s Tutku Tours tantalizes you with Turkish mezzah, exotic flavors with cooking classes in Istanbul and Izmir, where you’ll be thrown into the fire, as you prepare main courses and great desserts with esteemed European chefs. Ph.: +90 (232) 441-8676, info@tutkutours.com.

Ladies only: A journal for your thoughts, a candle to light the way, and an apron for your soul. Boston-based Cooking Vacations offers Renaissance Women in the Kitchen tours. These are designed for the independent, single woman who wants the freedom to travel solo but with the comfort of an all female travel group. Nothing is spared here. Accommodations are set in charming villas, country farmhouse estates and attractive palazzos all over Italy. Modern amenities, private baths and maid service are standard at each place. Woo-hoo! Ph.: 800/916-1152.

Falafel

The pursuit of the best vegetarian sandwich makes stops in Philadelphia, New York and Los Angeles.

Taïm, in the New York’s West Village, offers tasty fried chickpea croquettes in its fresh pita from a cute shack. Don’t be frightened by the lines; they move fast and the rewards are more than fulfilling. Three different samplings: roasted pepper, harissa and cilantro-parsley-mint, tempt and treat. 222 Waverly Place, Manhattan; Ph.: 212/691-1287.

Maoz Vegetarian in Philadelphia offers the new age approach to falafel, allowing you to individualize your sandwich with its self-serve salad bar guaranteed to make yours one-of-a-kind. The extra tahini, slightly green cabbage, and black olives, tabouleh, pickled turnips and a dash of salt is our favorite. 248 South St., Philadelphia; Ph.: 215/625-3500.

Last but not least, is Westwood’s own Falafel King. A favorite of UCLA students, it is also home to the upscale folks who want to go back to their college roots with good food at inexpensive prices. Revered for its simplicity—steaming hot pitas with tahini sauce, lettuce and tomato—the taste represents the best L.A. has to offer, which is a bold statement in a city where falafel shacks are seemingly everywhere. 1059 Broxton Ave. Los Angeles; Ph.: 310/208-4444.

MAKE YOUR OWN FALAFEL

1 cup dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans) or 16 oz. can chickpeas
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 1 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon cumin
1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder
Salt and Pepper
Oil for frying

Place dried chickpeas in a bowl, covering with cold water. Allow to soak overnight. Omit this step if using canned beans.

Drain chickpeas and place in pan with fresh water. Bring to a boil. Allow to boil for 5 minutes, then let simmer on low for about an hour.

Drain and allow to cool for 15 minutes.

Combine chickpeas, garlic, onion, parsley, coriander, cumin, salt and pepper (to taste) in medium bowl. Add baking powder.

Mash chickpeas and other ingredients together into a thick paste. You can use a food processor for this. Form the mixture into small balls about the size of a ping-pong ball. Slightly flatten.

Fry in 2 inches of oil until golden brown (5-7 minutes).

Lahm Bi Ajine

Those of you who have experienced the pure joy of lunching on lahm bi ajine (Armenian pizza, paper-thin dough, with tasty meat, tomatoes and spices) in Lebanon or Armenia, know the utter delight that these three words bring to any table. There are so many good places to eat in those two countries that we don’t have to name them. You simply can’t go wrong there.

Outside is an entirely different matter, with charlatans peddling their would-be treats to an unsuspecting public. You can’t find a good lahm bi ajine just anywhere in the U.S. But we found a real gem just steps from Michigan Avenue in the heart of Chicago’s thriving Streeterville neighborhood. Sayat Nova’s earthy Mediterranean spread is just the right blend of everything good and tops our list because they have been doing it right since 1970. 157 E. Ohio St., Chicago 60611; Ph.: 312/644-9159.

Cheeseburger, Cheeseburger

The hamburger at Barbar in Hamra, Beirut (Ph.: +961 1 348814), served on a simple sesame seed bun, well-done with a mayo-laced side of cole slaw, is years ahead of its time and has not been duplicated anywhere it seems. Expats from Lebanon boast of its great flavor and unbeatable price (around $4.50). Those of us lucky enough to venture into Beirut know what we are talking about.

The closest we can find here in the States—as well as exotic stops in Bahrain, Kuwait, Qatar and the UAE—is Johnny Rockets. The international chain spreads its All-American flavor, complete with creamy milk shakes’ classic 50s charm all over the world. It is especially appealing to the Middle Eastern crowd looking for more flavor and less drive-thru.
Ph.: +961 1 348814.

Ahweh

Call it whatever you want: Turkish, Lebanese, Arabic, Greek, Ahweh. However you call it, you can’t find it at your local Starbucks or Coffee Bean. We can’t get enough of those coffee grounds that are deliberately drunk along with the coffee and brewed with the sugar, rather than sweetened after brewing. Most Middle Eastern restaurants offer it, but few perfect it. We found a few:

L.A.’s Bourgeois Pig Coffee- house, with its shabby chic Moroccan Room, marries Arabia with the smokey blue atmosphere usually associated with our neighborhood coffeehouses. The budding writer or poet will find solace in the pungent flavors brewed here along with the free wireless Internet hookups. Creative thoughts simply fly from your head to the keyboard, fueled, of course, with caffeine power. Try the tea too—Moroccan mint being the choice here.5931 Franklin Ave., Los Angeles, CA; Ph.: 323/464-6008.

The bright red walls at the Gypsy House Cafe are just a hint of the truly imitable atmosphere marked by tapestries, plants and authentic Middle Eastern wall hangings. But the coffee fully embraces the Turkish proverb: "Coffee should be as black as hell, as strong as death, and as sweet as love." And that’s what keeps the faithful pouring back in.1279 Marion St, Denver, CO;Ph.: 303/830-1112.

In the cozy college town of Cambridge, Massachusetts, Andala Coffee House stands out above the crowd with traditional islamic decor and amazingly large windows to watch the world pass by.

The owners seamlessly blend Arabic-style brews amongst regular espresso and tea favorites to lure a mixed crowd of Middle Easterners and Americans. The enticing background music also beats to a cross-cultural crowd, which makes this East Coast experience a real multicultural affair. Peace. Out!286 Franklin St., Cambridge, MA; Ph.: 617/945-2212.

At www.natashascafe.com (or toll free 888/901-8412) you can get everything you need to make your own brew at home. The Millennium gift setis simple and romantic for two, including a double ibrik (that’s the small copper brewing pot with the long handle), quarter pound of coffee (Turkish, Cairo and Africa blend), recipes, and demitasse cups and saucers. $40.BaklavaCrepe paper-thin pastry basted with purest butter, embraces fresh nuts and an engaging sugar syrup. It comes after dinner when your stomach is full, and just begs you to over eat. It’s Baklava and there’s only one place on earth that does it quite like Shatila, in Dearborn, Michigan, with most products available over the Internet. The Shatila staff bakes everything on site and offers Baklava so good that lots of people drive from all over the region just to taste a batch fresh from the oven. 14300 W. Warren, Dearborn, MI; Ph.: 313/934-1520 www.shatila.com.Opposite page:

Egypt—the pyramids from the Giza Plateau. "From atop these pyramids, forty centuries look down upon you."—Napoleon Bonaparte to his troops before the 1798 Battle of Giza.

Even before Napoleon was set to battle, he stopped to appreciate the beauty here and for good reason. In light of pyramid complexes already built, Egyptian king Khufu (also know by his Greek name Cheops) saw there was no proper space for his own when the time came. He found a commanding rock cliff overlooking present day Giza, perfect for a towering pyramid, and today it is known as the Giza Plateau.

The plateau is located only a few miles south of Cairo and only a few hundred yards from the last houses in the city, where a limestone cliff rises sharply from the opposite side of the desert plateau. While our photo hints at the beauty, it is definitely a must see in person if possible.

Jordan—the Monastery at Petra. At the end of a 856-step, 2,500 plus- foot climb at the stone city of Petra is a breathtaking (literally breathtaking as you will be out of breath from the steep climb) and immense building. The 150-foot-wide and 150-foot-tall tomb facade was carved meticulously from the stone mountainside by the Nabataeans, who were native to the land thousands of years ago. Like its smaller counterpart, the Treasury, located around the bend at the beginning of the 856-step journey, the structure consists of two stories topped by a magnificent urn.

Cyprus—Kourion Amphitheater. On a cliff overlooking the crystal clear Mediterranean Sea, is this beautifully preserved ancient wonder of the world, a Greco-Roman amphitheater where Greek and Shakespeare plays are still being performed. As you watch the colorful hang-gliders riding above Kourion, and the sailboats and swimmers, imagine yourself lost high above the beach, strangely in tune with both the world around you and your inner most spirit.

The Cedars of Lebanon. The cedars were highly prized by the ancient Phoenicians and sought for their strong, fine wood—straight and incredibly scented. Centuries of poaching left the once thriving forest with less than 400 trees, now government protected.

A trek to the Cedars is a lonely ride to the middle of nowhere and not without reward. Adjacent to the national forest are ski resorts, incredible nature views and the cleanest air on earth.

Syria—Morning bread delivery in Damascus. Magnificent sights don’t have to be natural or manmade wonders. Some are simply everyday occurrences, but new to us.

When the sun rises on the bare streets of Damascus, the corner bakeries are preparing the daily bread for an entire city. As the sun splashes rooftops with golden rays, the streets begin to fill with shoppers looking for the right vegetables for their daily meals and shopkeepers turning the key on another day. Boys load the big baskets on their bikes with flat bread, while the older men hand carry larger orders to their destinations. A sight only seen in a handful of cities worldwide.

Iran—Tabriz Gold Bazaar. Walking in the center of Tabriz harkens you back centuries with its simplicity that collides with complexities. The large 15th-century covered bazaar is a wonderful place to get lost amid architectural splendor. While shopping at the bazaar, the eye candy rests in the varieties of precious stones and metals available to travelers or locals looking for the perfect wedding gift.

Souk Shopping

If you have ever been shopping in the Middle Eastern souks, you may be enchanted by the alluring open air feel of the shopping, ripe for negotiating and without an inch of empty space. Talk about duty free, the markets are decidedly consumer-friendly with no taxes, and with hidden treasures to be found among the mass-produced Orient schlock.

For those who have missed the excitement of darting from stall to stall to be entertained by the shopkeepers that offer tea and conversation—here’s a small checklist of places to shop around the world.

Khan el-Khalili—Cairo

Built in 1382, Khan el-Khalili represents the market tradition that established the Egyptian city as a major trade center. Famous for Egyptian cotton, exquisite art, ornate lanterns and gold and silver, the souk is credited for forcing European merchants to search for new sources of spices due to the monopoly it held on the region. Take a break at Fishawi's, the 24-hour coffeehouse that has not closed its doors since it opened in the late 1700s.

Bab al-Bahrain Souk—Bahrain

After a day in Manama you will discover that life in Bahrain centers on the famed souk. The Gateway to Bahrain (as its name is literally translated) features an opulent portal built in 1945 overlooking the sea. Rich yellow 22-karat gold jewelry and pearls beckon you, as do the traditional robes and the halwa sweets and candies.

Al-Boshoot—Kuwait City

Although it doesn’t have the name recognition as other souks across the land, the Al-Boshoot market (easy to find—ask your concierge) features some of the best shopping anywhere. Men’s robes, versatile handmade caftans, antique furniture and the world’s freshest roasted pistachios.

The Grand Bazaar—Istanbul

Older than most countries—dating back to 1461—the world’s largest covered souk has over 4,000 shops covering 64 streets! Nearly 300,000 shoppers come in search of the best chandeliers, silver flatware, pottery, leather and jewelry anywhere in Asia or Europe. Here, stumbling around is half the fun, as is the tradition of negotiating for and purchasing Turkish rugs in shops that seem only big enough for the shopkeeper. finding your favorite foods at one of the many cafes or restaurants is a treasure hunt. Wander. Enjoy. Live. And don’t expect to cover the entire souk in less than a lifetime.

Adam Basma Bazaar—Los Angeles

Though it is billed as the place to shop for authentic belly dance costuming, there is so much more in this quaint store of one of the premier dance instructors in the Western United States. Jewelry, shoes, walking canes, Moroccan lamps and Middle Eastern furniture are just the beginning of the vast selection of wares. 5998 West Pico Blvd.Los Angeles, CA;323/931-7766.

Online—www.justmorocco.com

Importing from the old souks of Morocco, the online sensation offers only handmade, delicately appointed furnishings. Leather Moorish benches, Dama lanterns, Andalus buffet tables, and our favorite, the Alhambra chairs, highlighting the never ending collections. Reasonable prices and affordable shipping. Log-on for new arrivals!

THREE SUPER SAFARIS

Dubai

Dubai is more than just futuristic skyscrapers and high-end boutiques. Just miles from the commercial center sits a desert playground of towering sand dunes. A forbidding wilderness waiting to be conquered. Choose your 4x4 Jeep or your 4-wheel ATV (pictured below right), and hair raising thrill rides over swollen sands are just minutes away.

Desert Safari Dubai offers several tours including a half day safari, an overnight tour and a camel trek. The most popular is the afternooner with the aforementioned dune bashing, a camel farm visit, sand boarding, camel rides and even henna designing for the ladies.

The tour stops to watch the Arabian Gulf sunset before being treated to a barbecue dinner capped by a shisha (flavored tobacco waterpipe) nightcap and a belly dance show. (Some might consider the belly dance show to be the highlight of the whole experience.) www.desertsafaridubai.com.

Wadi Rum, Jordan

The stunning desertscapes of Wadi Rum (pictured, above right), 200 miles southwest of Amman, Jordan, rank among the greatest on Earth. The place where Lawrence of Arabia led the Arab Revolt in the early 1900’s remains an untouched land ready to be discovered anew. The sandy desert, swept with majestic sandstone formations invites the eyes and soothes the soul. Faces of most mountain facades can be climbed by the amateur and out-of-shape as well as the adventure traveler.

On your two-hour drive to the Captain’s Desert Camp experience, each twist and turn reveals a new sight rearing up endlessly into the sky. Bedouins live there as they have for centuries, herding their sheep, using only the sun as their clock and remaining the soul of Jordan’s heritage.

Once at the camp, you feel what it might have been like as a Bedouin living with nature. Authentic food cooked in the ground for hours awaits your taste buds, and sleeping in the great goat’s hair tents provides a wonderfully restful night’s sleep under the crisp desert moon.

The greatest pleasure, however, is rising in the darkness of the morning, surrounded by silence. All of the city noise that washes away peace is gone. There you are allowed to discover yourself with your thoughts taking center stage.
www.captain-jo.com.
Sultanate of Oman

Nomadic Adventures & Tours

For approximately $500 US, Nomadic Adventures & Tours takes you and a companion on a 4 day-3 night nomadic tour (pictured below left) around the capital of Muscat, Al Mudayrib and Wahiba Sands, offering unreal scenery guarded by ancient watchtowers.
Ph: +968-99336273;
Email: nomadiccamp@gmx.net.